Gasherbrum I Expd |57 Days

Trip Highlights

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier.The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style.

Trip Overview

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.

The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.

Gasherbrum I is one to the “least popular” of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01    ARRIVAL ISLAMABAD TRANSFER TO HOTEL
Day 02    FREE DAY
Day 03    FLY TO SKARDU
Day 04    SKARDU FREE DAY AND BRIEFING
Day 05    DRIVE TO  ASKOLE
Day 06    TREK TO JHOLA
Day 07    TREK TO PAIYU
Day 08    REST DAY IN PAIYU
Day 09    TREK TO URDUKASH
Day 10  TREK TO GORO II
Day 11   GORO II – SAKRING
Day 12  SAKRING – GI BASE CAMP
Day 13 – 47  CLIMBING PERIOD
Day 48  TREK BACK TO GORO II
Day 49  TREK BACK TO KHUBURTZE
Day 50  TREK BACK TO MUNDUNG
Day 51  TREK BACK TO ICE KOLI
Day 52  DRIVE TO SKARDU
Day 53  FAREWELL AND DEBRIEFING
Day 54  FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD
Day 55  LEISURE DAY IN ISLAMABAD
Day 56  INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT TO HOME COUNTRY

Detail Itinerary

Day 01    ARRIVAL ISLAMABAD TRANSFER TO HOTEL
Day 02    FREE DAY
Day 03    FLY TO SKARDU
Day 04    SKARDU FREE DAY AND BRIEFING
Day 05    DRIVE TO  ASKOLE
Day 06    TREK TO JHOLA
Day 07    TREK TO PAIYU
Day 08    REST DAY IN PAIYU
Day 09    TREK TO URDUKASH
Day 10  TREK TO GORO II
Day 11   GORO II – SAKRING
Day 12  SAKRING – GI BASE CAMP
Day 13 – 47  CLIMBING PERIOD
Day 48  TREK BACK TO GORO II
Day 49  TREK BACK TO KHUBURTZE
Day 50  TREK BACK TO MUNDUNG
Day 51  TREK BACK TO ICE KOLI
Day 52  DRIVE TO SKARDU
Day 53  FAREWELL AND DEBRIEFING
Day 54  FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD
Day 55  LEISURE DAY IN ISLAMABAD
Day 56  INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT TO HOME COUNTRY

Equipment List

Footwear:

  • Climbing boots
  • Cold weather boots for base camp
  • Trainers
  • Comfortable sandals
  • Lightweight hiking boots
  • Gaiters
  • Booties
  • Light socks
  • Heavy socks

Clothing:

  • Lightweight long underwear top
  • Expedition weight long underwear tops
  • Lightweight long underwear bottoms
  • Expedition weight underwear bottoms
  • Briefs/Underwear
  • Short-sleeved shirts/T-shirts
  • Jacket synthetic or fleece
  • Synthetic insulated pants
  • Down suit
  • Down insulated jacket with hood
  • Down pants
  • Waterproof breathable jacket & pants
  • Wind shirts/light shell jacket
  • One piece climbing shell (optional)

Head & Hand Gear

  • Lightweight syntheticliner glove
  • Headlamp with spare bulb and extra alkaline batteries
  • Windstopper fleece gloves
  • Insulated climbing gloves
  • Mittens with liners
  • Sun hat
  • Wool or fleece hat
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Mountain helmet

Accessories

  • UV Sunglasses
  • Glacier glasses
  • Ski goggles
  • Spare batteries

Climbing Equipment

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Webbing
  • Perlon cord
  • Ascenders
  • Rappel device
  • Camping Gear
  • Backpack
  • Day pack
  • Two Sleeping bags:-40C/-30F
  • Compression stuff sacks
  • THermal sleeping pad
  • Foam pad
  • 2 Water bottles
  • Lightweight steel thermal bottle
  • Pee bottle
  • Pee Funnel for Women.
  • Pack towel
  • Extendable 2 trekking poles
  • Swiss army knife
  • Large mug, plastic bowl, fork and spoon

Medical & Personal

  • Sunscreen
  • Lipscreen
  • Toiletry kit
  • Personal medication
  • Water purification tablets
  • Zip-loc bags
  • Baby wipes or wet towels
  • Ear plugs

Travel Items

  • 2 large expedition duffel bag
  • Small travel bag
  • Nylon stuff sacks
  • Lightweight cotton long sleeve shirt
  • Hiking pants and/or skirt/sarong
  • Lightweight pants

Cost Included

  • Arrival & departure transfers by private vehicle
  • B&B accommodation in Kathmandu at a 3 star hotel on a twin-share basis
  • Complete camping equipment for trekking
  • Accommodation & meals while trekking
  • Food & camping at Base Camp for members & staff
  • Expedition permit (shared basis) & national park fee (wherever applicable)
  • 1 tent per climber at Base Camp
  • 2 Base Camp staff (1 cook & 1 kitchen boy)
  • 1 liaison officer plus daily wages, equipment & insurance
  • Staff wages, equipment allowance & insurance
  • Required number of porters (porters to carry up to 30kgs each) including food & equipment
  • Domestic airfare (strictly as per itinerary) for members & staff
  • Cargo fees (strictly as per itinerary)
  • Cargo clearance & duty fees
  • All surface transfers as per the itinerary
  • Farewell dinner at authentic Nepali restaurant with cultural program

Cost not Include

  • Nepal visa fee
  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • High-altitude Climbing Sherpa
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during trekking.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones and Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Supplemental oxygen
  • Filming permit (if special camera)
  • Cargo Customs clearance duty fees
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs

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Price from Ask
  • Trip Duration: 57 Days
  • Trip Grading: Strenuous
  • Max Altitude: 8,068 M
  • Best Time: Summer
  • Trip Mode: camping,lodging
  • Group Size: 2-10 People
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