Gasherbrum I Expd |57 Days

Trip Overview

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.

The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.

Gasherbrum I is one to the “least popular” of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to “The Japanese Couloir”, which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01    ARRIVAL ISLAMABAD TRANSFER TO HOTEL
Day 02    FREE DAY
Day 03    FLY TO SKARDU
Day 04    SKARDU FREE DAY AND BRIEFING
Day 05    DRIVE TO  ASKOLE
Day 06    TREK TO JHOLA
Day 07    TREK TO PAIYU
Day 08    REST DAY IN PAIYU
Day 09    TREK TO URDUKASH
Day 10  TREK TO GORO II
Day 11   GORO II – SAKRING
Day 12  SAKRING – GI BASE CAMP
Day 13 – 47  CLIMBING PERIOD
Day 48  TREK BACK TO GORO II
Day 49  TREK BACK TO KHUBURTZE
Day 50  TREK BACK TO MUNDUNG
Day 51  TREK BACK TO ICE KOLI
Day 52  DRIVE TO SKARDU
Day 53  FAREWELL AND DEBRIEFING
Day 54  FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD
Day 55  LEISURE DAY IN ISLAMABAD
Day 56  INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT TO HOME COUNTRY