Nanga Parbat EXPD |50 Days

Trip Highlights

Nanga Parbat is truly an awesome spectacle.It is the nineth highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Pakistan after K2.

Trip Overview

Nanga Parbat is truly an awesome spectacle.It is the nineth highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Pakistan after K2. The south face is the largest in the world extending over four kilometres above base camp. To date there have only been five ascents from the south. Nanga Parbat means “Naked Mountain” in Hindi/Urdu and is with reference to the south face’s exposed rock buttresses. The north face is equally intimidating. In contrast to the south face’s steep rock and ice the snowy north face is guarded by a broad barrier of seracs that extend the width of the mountain. Climbers before the Second World War were convinced that the only way to climb the mountain was from the north via a long arc extending over Rakhiot Peak (7010m), between the two summits of Silberzacken and finally to the summit of Nanga Parbat thereby avoiding a more direct ascent of the north face. The route was dangerously prone to avalanche and exposed to bad weather. 31 people died attempting to climb the mountain leading to it acquiring the infamous name of the “Killer Mountain”.

Nowadays it is not such a killer and there are other peaks that could inherit the nickname (eg Ultar or Batura I). Hermann Buhl’s summit route has only been repeated once (Slovak, 1971) to this day. His ascent marked only the third 8000m ascent after Annapurna I (1950) and Everest and was the only first summit of all the 8000ers to be done without oxygen and of course solo. Most attempts nowadays are via the Westerly Diamir face which is generally considered to be the easiest and safest with the Kinshofer Route the normal route. Nanga Parbat as of 2005, had received 263 ascents by 261 individuals (Messner and SP Member Qudrat Ali have climbed it twice) at a price of 62 deaths. Sixteen women have summited the mountain.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01    Arrival in islamabad,Transfer to hotel.
Day 02    Islamabad:Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03    Drive to Chilas via Karakiram Highway.
Day 04-05:   Drive to Halale by jeep and trek to B.C.
Day 06–45:   40 days for acclimatization and climbing
Day 46-47:    Trek down to Halale and drive by jeep to Chilas.
Day 48   Drive  to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 49:    Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 50   International Flight to home Country.

Detail Itinerary

Day 01    Arrival in islamabad,Transfer to hotel.
Day 02    Islamabad:Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03    Drive to Chilas via Karakiram Highway.
Day 04-05:   Drive to Halale by jeep and trek to B.C.
Day 06–45:   40 days for acclimatization and climbing
Day 46-47:    Trek down to Halale and drive by jeep to Chilas.
Day 48   Drive  to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 49:    Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 50   International Flight to home Country.

Equipment List

Footwear:

  • Climbing boots
  • Cold weather boots for base camp
  • Trainers
  • Comfortable sandals
  • Lightweight hiking boots
  • Gaiters
  • Booties
  • Light socks
  • Heavy socks

Clothing:

  • Lightweight long underwear top
  • Expedition weight long underwear tops
  • Lightweight long underwear bottoms
  • Expedition weight underwear bottoms
  • Briefs/Underwear
  • Short-sleeved shirts/T-shirts
  • Jacket synthetic or fleece
  • Synthetic insulated pants
  • Down suit
  • Down insulated jacket with hood
  • Down pants
  • Waterproof breathable jacket & pants
  • Wind shirts/light shell jacket
  • One piece climbing shell (optional)

Head & Hand Gear

  • Lightweight syntheticliner glove
  • Headlamp with spare bulb and extra alkaline batteries
  • Windstopper fleece gloves
  • Insulated climbing gloves
  • Mittens with liners
  • Sun hat
  • Wool or fleece hat
  • Balaclava
  • Face mask
  • Mountain helmet

Accessories

  • UV Sunglasses
  • Glacier glasses
  • Ski goggles
  • Spare batteries

Climbing Equipment

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Webbing
  • Perlon cord
  • Ascenders
  • Rappel device
  • Camping Gear
  • Backpack
  • Day pack
  • Two Sleeping bags:-40C/-30F
  • Compression stuff sacks
  • THermal sleeping pad
  • Foam pad
  • 2 Water bottles
  • Lightweight steel thermal bottle
  • Pee bottle
  • Pee Funnel for Women.
  • Pack towel
  • Extendable 2 trekking poles
  • Swiss army knife
  • Large mug, plastic bowl, fork and spoon

Medical & Personal

  • Sunscreen
  • Lipscreen
  • Toiletry kit
  • Personal medication
  • Water purification tablets
  • Zip-loc bags
  • Baby wipes or wet towels
  • Ear plugs

Travel Items

  • 2 large expedition duffel bag
  • Small travel bag
  • Nylon stuff sacks
  • Lightweight cotton long sleeve shirt
  • Hiking pants and/or skirt/sarong
  • Lightweight pants

Cost Included

  • Arrival & departure transfers by private vehicle
  • B&B accommodation in Kathmandu at a 3 star hotel on a twin-share basis
  • Complete camping equipment for trekking
  • Accommodation & meals while trekking
  • Food & camping at Base Camp for members & staff
  • Expedition permit (shared basis) & national park fee (wherever applicable)
  • 1 tent per climber at Base Camp
  • 2 Base Camp staff (1 cook & 1 kitchen boy)
  • 1 liaison officer plus daily wages, equipment & insurance
  • Staff wages, equipment allowance & insurance
  • Required number of porters (porters to carry up to 30kgs each) including food & equipment
  • Domestic airfare (strictly as per itinerary) for members & staff
  • Cargo fees (strictly as per itinerary)
  • Cargo clearance & duty fees
  • All surface transfers as per the itinerary

Cost not Include

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • High-altitude Climbing Sherpa
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during trekking.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones and Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Supplemental oxygen
  • Filming permit (if special camera)
  • Cargo Customs clearance duty fees
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs

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Price from Ask
  • Trip Duration: 50 Days
  • Trip Grading: Strenuous
  • Max Altitude: 8,125 M
  • Best Time: Summer
  • Trip Mode: camping,lodging
  • Group Size: 2-10 People
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